July 10th in Waverly, Tennessee
Last night we enjoyed a wonderful Mexican dinner (Mexican food is not good bike food) with Brian and Ulli from Santa Barbara, California. They are biking from California to Maine. They have been on the “road” for 9 weeks covering 2300 miles. Using an I-Pad as their mapping device—no gps or Adventure Cycling Maps. Ulli is a nurse and took a leave of absence from her job. While Brian has worked in retail for 28 years and at 58 he quit. Not knowing what to do they decide to bike across the United States then ship their bikes to Germany in September to visit Ulli’s parents. They plan on going home in November. They have been camping mostly( sleeping in parks, vacant warehouses, campgrounds, family and people’s yards) and carrying their own food. They are an adventuresome couple. Ulli went on her first tour when she was in her 30’s with her brother for 6 weeks in New Zealand. Yikes I said I could never do that with my brother!
Correction to my Stats—we did 284 miles in Alabama. My proof reader finally got around to reading my postings!
5:35 am is when we got out of the air conditioned room into the sauna air. It was already 77 degrees and we were dripping as we hooked up Bob. We wanted to get on the road before the sun came up to high—sunrise is at 5:40 am. We checked the weather last night to learn how HOT it will be. Even though the temperature will be in the 90’s the heat index for the next 2 days will be 101-110.
We looked for a rest stop this morning and found this woman opening up a bar. So we went in (cool) and had a pop. She has 14 children, 34 grandchildren and 27 great-grandchildren.13 years ago her husband died and she does not “date” not interested. She works 6 days per week (I would too) and stays home on Sunday. Sunday is when she sees her children. They all come to visit her as she does not want to travel to see them. (Note-people tell us what county they live in not city. It has not been unusual for us to ask someone about the next town and they reply “Don’t know never been there because it is not in my county.”)
Today we rode the back roads to Dover. The roads are much more difficult to maneuver because of their slope or steep grade. You think you got it and find out the “eye” is deceiving and the grade is really steep. We are seeing forested land with signs saying “Private Property Hunting Club.” These are prevalent in Tennessee for those folks who enjoy the sport.
The stories of relationships in the book I am reading (Forbidden Fruit) are so incredible. Some of the couples ended up in Elmira, New York. During the Civil War there was a prisoner of war camp. There were thousands of prisoners of those 2000+ died of malnutrition and weather conditions. The undertaker was a freed slave-how ironic.
Stats for the day
Arrival time 11:00 am (we stopped at a Sonics and I had a 44 ounce cherry limeade)
44 miles,9.4 mph,4 hours 35 minutes, 3000’ elevation gain.
Looking forward to a rest day-July 13th. We have been on the “road” for 13 days. We made reservations at Patti’s—home of the 2 inch pork chop. Last time we rode into town we could smell the pork cooking.
Critter Count
Dogs 6
Deer 1
Rabbit 1
3 Presbyterian Churches
July 11 Dover, KY
We left the Dover Inn Motel at 5:35 am. We know it is about 80 degrees as we stop at McDonald’s for an Egg McMuffin to eat later down the road as there are no food stops on the trace today.
We are traveling the Land between the Lakes Trace today. It is a National Recreational Area between the Kentucky River and Barkley Lake. At one time in the 1800’s this land was filled with small settlements along the river. We stopped at this huge 60 foot limestone slab furnace it operated for 34 weeks during 1862. I remember the last time we rode through here I counted the number of family cemeteries. This stretch of land is about 50 miles long—no commercial vehicles are allowed. We are on our way to Grand Rivers, KY for rest, bike part and pork chops.
We left Tennessee – I wish it was good bye dogs, but alas there are the Kentucky dogs-634 miles so far as we cross the border.
We had a glorious experience of riding through two corn fields – we could actually smell the corn in the air.
The forest in Tennessee and Kentucky are very thick with small oak trees. I imagine slaves moving through these forests, valleys and along the rivers.
Note to neighbors (Terry, Matt and Gina—Bruce went to bed before Esther.) He was down and out by 7:00 pm. I stayed up to 8:00—late night!
Stats for July 12
Arrival time 11:30 am at the Bike Store!! They had sweet tea for us; tour de France on TV and the trolley part. We are so relieved to get it repaired. It is a weight off our mind not to worry during the shifting process. The owners were so nice and generous.
48 miles, 10.3 mph, 4 hours 39 minutes, 2900 feet elevation gain
Grand Rivers is a small but cute community. There is 1 hotel, 1 B and B, small shops, 1 IGA store, post office, ice cream store and Patti’s. No beer—dry county.
We went to Patti’s for dinner. Yummy! Bruce ate the 2 inch pork chop and pecan pie for dessert.
I spent the afternoon sitting in a swing by the pool, knitting and watching the hummingbirds. I swam for a little bit and just relaxed. We do not have to think about getting on bike or the weather or getting up at 5:00 am.
Critter count
3 deer (1 fawn)
1 Presbyterian Church
July 13 in Grand Rivers, KY REST DAY
We slept in until 6:30 am. It was such a great feeling to know that we could just sleep in! We had a thunderstorm last night. Lots of thunder and rain. Today has a wonderful cloud cover and coolness in the air.
Ok what do bikers do on a rest day? We don’t bike that is for sure. This morning we walked up the hill to breakfast around 9:00. It is weird to eat in restaurants that allow smoking, but it was the only place in town that serves breakfast.
Bruce and I went shopping at the Patti’s mall and other antique stores. I bought Esther, Jessica and Greg a little present and sent it home. We walked out to the Gazebo on Kentucky Lake. It felt good to just hang out and walk slowly. We worked on the bike—Bruce oiled the chain and checked out the tires. We rented a golf cart – yes –it is the way to get around here on the streets. We visited all the little bays around the town. Green Turtle Bay has a huge marina with lots of house and speed boats, yachts, ski-dos, and kayaks. One of the interesting thing we saw were dry stacks. They were about 5 stories high and stored boats. There was a fork lift that lifted the boats out of the water and up to the “rack.” It was a hoot to buzz around town and all the bays in this little cart.
We are eating at Patti’s again as a farewell dinner—I think if we ever return here it will be in a car. Bruce only ate a 1 inch pork chop.
The weather looks “cool” for the next few days with some heating up for the next week end. For those of you following our schedule—we have change for the next few days.
· July 14th we will go to Cave in Rock, Il
· July 15th we will be in Henderson, KY
SHOUT OUT TO JESSICA Happy Birthday dear daughter. Looking forward to celebrating when we get home.
No stats for the day except we saw a doe and twin fawns as we scooted around on our golf cart.
Happy trails, Charlene and Bruce
July 14th Cave in Rock, IL
We got up to a cool morning and left Grand Rivers, KY at 5:35 am. Veronica, the inn keeper, came out and said good bye to us.
We ate breakfast in Smithland at the local hang out. All the elders of the area came in for breakfast. Bruce asked what we should see in this town of 401? The owner of the restaurant (Bruce took a picture of her and her partner) told us to ride down the main street to see the confluence of the Ohio and Cumberland River.(If we had been at this spot last month we would have seen the river at the top of the levee. The river system (Ohio especially) was very important for the slaves as they headed north. We visited the Gower house (took a picture) which had a secret tunnel underneath it leading to another house in town that hid the slaves on their way north.
We will be riding off and on the “Trail of Tears.” It represents one of the darkest periods of our history. As the people in Africa were being kidnapped and shipped to be slaves in the south, the federal government was evacuating Native Americans from Kentucky (Carrsville we went through it). Andrew Jackson, as president, signed the Removal Act of 1830. This mandated the removal of all Native American from east of the Mississippi River to Oklahoma. 3-4000 Cherokees died along this trail.
After leaving Smithland we rode over the Cumberland River. It is always fun to cross over these large rivers.
Our terrain is corn and soy fields with occasional hay fields. We can feel a slight breeze that makes the day cooler. Corn fields have signs identifying the type of seed they are using such as Agrigold and Agventure. Big farms, hogs in ponds snorting , cows in ponds are what we see today. There are lots of abandoned houses and farms.
We went through the town of Joy again. I made Bruce stop and take my picture.
We met a biker at the ferry crossing from Kentucky to Illinois. He was from Ohio and began his trip in Yorktown, Virginia. He was all by himself, no helmet, just Adventure Cycling maps. He had no time limit when he will be done. His plan is to end up in San Francisco. We ferried across the Ohio River. Cave in Rock is a large cave which over the years has been used by robbers, pirates, etc.
Stats for July 14th
Arrival in Cave in Rock, IL at 11:50 am we are staying in a $40/night hotel. No credit cards the sign out front of the motel can hardly be read because it is so aged. The owner greets me in his “office” with a dirt floor and cats hanging around. Handmade signs hang on the wall saying “No you can look at a room. Take it or leave it. This is not the Hilton. No credit cards.” The owner is in shorts and slippers and has no teeth. We get to the room I immediately do a bed check –no bugs and a shower check – no cock roaches. We ride a mile into town for dinner. I tell everyone in the restaurant where we are staying—just in case. No phones in the room. We put a chair in front of the door and the bike. I can hardly wait to leave tomorrow.
Stats for July 14th Cave in Rock, IL
55 miles, 11.3 mph, 4 hours 48 minutes ride time, 2800 elevation gain
July 15th Henderson, Ky
We are up and wide awake (for me most of the night) and out the door by 5:40. We eat at the local restaurant by the ferry as it does not leave until 6:00 am. We visit with a truck driver about the roads and weather.
Our challenge of the day is to climb from 300 feet to over 700 feet in one large hill. We end up walking up half way up. As we are pushing the bike a farmer slows up and drives along aside us to ask us questions and tell us when we get to the top he will have water for us! Great.
Today was almost a perfect ride day. After the “big” hill we spend the rest of the day to Henderson riding through corn and soy fields. The air smells so good. We look over the tops of miles of tasseled corn—peaceful.
Went through “Little Sturgis” KY where a biker rally was happening, so the roads were filled with motor cycles that waved the “low” wave at us. Funny!
Before we got into Henderson, KY we stopped at a general store where all the farmers gather. It was a lot of fun just talking and joking with them. The sheriff was eating lunch and gave us his two bits worth.
Maneuvering into Henderson—population 25,000 people is only for the excellent captain. Bruce has to steer the bike, read the gps, listen to me say “car, big truck, the car won’t move over” and make his way through 4 lanes of traffic. We arrive safe and sound.
Stats for July 15th
Arrival time 1:50 pm, 62 miles, 10.4 mph, 5 hours 56 minutes and 3000’ elevation gain.
Critter Count
3 Rabbits
1 deer
We have a few more nights in Kentucky, then on to Indiana and Ohio.
Charlene and Bruce
July 14th count....
Critter Count
5 dogs
1 Egret
1 Blue Heron
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